Sea

Why do waves always roll to the coast?

The water always flushes towards the coast, whether it is small ripples or high waves. But they never go the other way. We have to go far out to find the explanation.

The wind needs time and space to build up waves.

They are only available on the open sea, which is why the waves always come to you when you look at the sea from the coast.

The formation of waves is slow, because the friction between water and air is not that great. The transfer of energy takes place because the air pulls at the front of a wave and sucks at the back.

Wind and distance form the wave

There are formulas that describe exactly how high a wave can get.

The harder the wind blows, the longer the wind blows and the more room the wind has, the higher the wave.

Waves break on low tide

The particles of the water make circles in open water, creating wave tops on the surface.

In low tide they are influenced by the soil.

The bottom of a wave goes slower while the top continues until it finally breaks.

Sea going becomes sea swell

In areas on the open sea where the wind is generally strong, such as in the southern part of the Indian Ocean, the average height of the waves is no less than seven meters.

When the wind pushes the waves, we speak of sea going.

Closer to the coast, the wind is often not strong enough to sustain high waves. The course of the sea then gradually decreases and changes to sea swell, an indirect consequence of the wind.

Video: How Dangerous Can Ocean Waves Get? Wave Comparison (February 2020).

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